For this walk, let’s look at Black’s Link - a delightful road (or link) between Wong Nei Chung Gap and Wan Chai Gap. I do love Bowen Road with it being so accessible for running, walking or even commuting, but Black's Link is far quieter with no vehicles and far fewer people. It's fast becoming my favourite running/walking route. 

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Most of us will have passed by the start of Black’s Link at Wong Nei Chung Gap but if we persevere past the rather impressive looking real estate, we get to the link itself which offers a pleasant and challenging walk with some lovely views along the way. But as with many of Hong Kong’s roads, we may not know the history and purpose behind the road itself.

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Black’s Link would have been originally been a dirt track or trail but the road we see today was formally opened in 1904. It was created out of a need to improve the island’s defences in case of a seaborne attack on the south of the island. Any discussion on the Battle of Hong Kong (in December 1941) often focusses on the need to ‘defend the gaps’ which were vital for both sides. This was obvious even back in 1898 when the idea of a formal road along Black’s Link was formed and was essentially a link between Wong Nei Chung Gap, Middle Gap and Wan Chai Gap. The original idea for the link came from Major General Wilsone Black which he described in his farewell speech to Legco as Acting Governor in November 1898.

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Health and pleasure and the wheels of progress, and I may add of bicycles, move on roads, and in my belief a great strengthening of the defence of this Island will take place when the tracing across the pathless barrier of Mount Cameron and Mount Nicholson is broadened into a road. Shortly after arriving in this colony I urged the Government to take this in hand on public grounds, and it is with great pleasure that by an agreement effected on my representation this boon to the pleasure of the colony and to its defence may be expected shortly to begin. The Executive Council has directed that this road be called "General Black's Link." I feel and value the compliment and only ask that the name may be shortened to "The Black Link."

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Aside from the views and being at one with nature, there are not too many features along the link itself, however as we walk from Wong Nei Chung Gap, the first point of interest is a pillbox located just a short way up the road. To see this involves a scramble up the storm culvert, so this is not for everyone, but if you do try you can see a very well-preserved pillbox. The pillbox saw some action during the fighting in 1941 however the general consensus is that it was immobilized fairly early in the battle as the shrapnel marks indicate. To elaborate further, the pillbox overlooked the whole of Wong Nei Chung Gap and the Japanese approached from the opposite side. They had already engaged with two other pillboxes on Jardine's Lookout and while those battles were ongoing, it appears that some heavy artillery wiped out any initial resistance from this pillbox. 

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Back on the trail and once past all the houses you are on the link itself and the first half is pretty much all uphill. Look out for the distance markers for the Hong Kong Trail which joins Black’s Link at the mid-point near Middle Gap. If you are feeling extra energetic, you can take a side trip up Mount Nicholson which is accessed by a trail visible on the right as you reach the first high point of the link. As you reach Middle Gap (the dip in the middle of the trail), you can also take a side trail up Mount Cameron. Make sure you’re prepared though – research these routes in advance and bring your water, hat and sunscreen.

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As I said at the start, Black’s Link is pretty isolated in terms of traffic so is home to an array of flora and fauna as well as wild boars, porcupines and a large collection of feral cats who are fed by some regular morning walkers. After Middle Gap we work our down the link and eventually come to Wan Chai Gap where we can head home via Wan Chai Gap Trail down to Wan Chai, or the frequent buses to the city.

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An update from October 2023 - the Black Rainstorm of September 7 wiped out a large chunk of the road around Middle Gap. There has been no attempt to rebuild the road as yet (priorities I guess) and the road is just about passable, but if and when the work starts they may block the road completeley until the work is finished.

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A selection of photos from Black's Link below and you can see the contrasting views over both sides of Hong Kong as you traverse along.

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