The Hong Kong Trail
The greatest urban hiking trail in the world!
Before I go on, I should clarify that this is probably the only urban hike I've actually been on, but it really is something special. I would recommend this trail to anyone with any semblance of fitness - you will see so many parts of Hong Kong - many familiar sights of course, but also so many hidden corners.
The trail starts at the Peak itself and although the official distance is 50km (with 100 1/2km markers along the way), I've measured it a few times and end up around 46km. So if you keep a steady but consistent pace throughout, you will need a good 12 hours to complete it. Therein lies the problem - you'd probably opt to attempt this in the cooler winter season from October to March, but during those months, your daylight hours will be limited. My advice, March and October should be cool enough to get through without 30+ degree temperatures, but enough daylight hours to get through without stumbling down Dragon's Back in the dark.
I use buses to get to the Peak and the first bus leaves Central at 6am - this is a good one to get if you can, so you'll set out around 6:30am. The trail is well marked and you will follow 100 1/2km markers along the way. Keep your wits about you though as there are a few instances where I have to think twice about the right trail. Before you set out, be prepared. There are no places to stock up on fluids between the start and 23km, so don't get caught out - a camel pack is ideal with a few cereal bars etc. to snack along the way. You are on trails and country (no traffic) roads with lots of ups and downs, so you need strong, comfortable hiking shoes. Blisters are also a possibility, so throw in a few band-aids and vaseline too.
Back to the start, and the first 3km are pretty easy - along Lugard Road and then down the path towards Pok Fu Lam Country Park. You'll also see your last toilets here, at the intersection of High West and Hatton Road, so go here if you need to go. After the path runs out, you're on real trails now and you're following the Pok Fu Lam road, albeit on your own quiet trails. You eventually pass Pok Fu Lam Reservoir, and soon work you way down to a catchwater with around 9.5km on your watch. After the catchwater, you get your first road climb around 11km, which takes you into Aberdeen Country Park. You now have around 8km of trails ahead of you, some ups and some downs, but generally easy going until your watch hits the 19km mark. Then you reach Middle Gap Road which is your first big test. It's a steep uphill for around 1km, then the road turns off to the right for a flatter section before you end up on another short trail which takes you to Black's Link.
You're coming up to half-way now and as you walk Black's Link to Wong Nei Chung Gap you have a decision to make. If you feel great, go for it, but if you or anyone in your party is struggling, this is a good place to cut the trail short. The second half begins with a very tough 3.5kms section, so be ready. If you're going for it, stock up at the petrol station and take a break if needs be - there are toilets at the Wong Nei Chung Reservoir too. Bear in mind too, you'll need a good 6 hours to finish the second half, so if it's past 1pm, you'll need to keep your pace up.
Right, onto the second half and you're immediately met with a steep uphill on the Tai Tam Reservoir Road towards Parkview. This takes it out of you and there is little respite as you turn off to the left and up Jardine's Lookout. Once at the top, you get the great views, but keep going as you have Mount Butler to climb next. Everything that goes up, must come down so after Mount Butler you have around 2-3km of downhill steps which can take a toll on your legs.
Once down, you work your way through Tai Tam Country Park and its lovely Reservoirs, which is a chance to catch up and see how you're feeling. (I say that, as there is a jumping off point here, at around the 30km mark. Instead of turning left back onto the trails, you can carry straight on and meet up with the Tai Tam Road around 32km.) I don't want you to do that though, so take the trail on the left which will eventually take you to Dragon's Back.
I'm sure most HK'ers have hiked Dragon's Back and if so, once you see it, you'll think you're almost home. Don't let up though, your watch will be telling you you've only done 31km, so still around 15km to go. Before getting to Dragon's Back the HK Trail takes you along the lower catchwater, which can be a tough section of the trail. Physically it's easy - around 6-7km of flat and well-marked pathway along the catchwater. But you're tired now and your fluids may be on the low side so it can be demoralizing. Keep your spirits up and if your fluids are low, preserve them as you still have another 1.5 hours to go after the catchwater.
The last bit of serious climbing you did was Mount Butler, but at the end of of the catchwater, you are suddenly hit with a stiff climb, firstly up to the Shek O Road, then up to Dragon's Back - about 2km of climbing here. Quite a tough section when you have around 38km in your legs. But keep going and once on Dragon's Back itself, you are rewarded with great views over Shek O and can also see the finish line at Big Wave Bay. Once off Dragon's Back, you aren't home yet, you still have a good hour ahead of you, so keep the pace up. First you have the flat trail along Shek O Road, then you have the road into Big Wave Bay - around 1.5km of (no traffic) road, then 1.5km of rough, downhill trail. The end is close now, but this last bit of trail can be tough on the feet, especially if you have the odd blister forming.
The final stairs take you into Big Wave Bay itself where you can take a well-earned rest before working your way home. You can get taxis here, but after a cool drink at the local store, I usually take the mini-bus to Shau Kei Wan, then the MTR home.
Once done, you can reflect on completing an amazing trail with some memorable highlights. Look at your photos and you will likely see the views from the Peak, the historical reservoirs of Pok Fu Lam, Aberdeen & Tai Tam, the views over Southside from Middle Gap and then over Deepwater Bay. Then the views from Jardine's Lookout & Mount Butler and the final breathtaking views over Shek O from Dragon's Back. On top of that, you've only ever been on Hong Kong Island, but were often the only person for miles around on quiet and secluded trails, paths & roads. As I said at the very beginning, the Hong Kong Trail is the best urban trail in the world!